May 31, 2015 - Hi, You can download last firmware for RT3 here: 550-595. Forum Cars GPS Systems Car navigation systems Peugeot-Citroen; Firmwares RT3. When i try change the language it tell me to insert the software CD. Mar 5, 2013 - hi i have a 2003 citroen c8 with van bus rt3 i think i got a bad download is there any way of reinstalling the software you have put here ie force. Jan 31, 2018 - Position: home page » products » FAQ and Tips » How to check software version of Peugeot/Citroen RT3 radios (Van-bus or Can-bus)? Rt3 software download. Please press and hold down the menu button on your RT3 unit to check your software version. Switch the power on; Hold down the MENU button until you get. Position: home page » products » FAQ and Tips » How to check software version of Peugeot/Citroen RT3 radios (Van-bus or Can-bus)? Please press and hold down the menu button on your RT3 unit to check your software version. The Connection with Yatour YT-M06 is ok and the.
I'll try to post full suit pics this week.
PS: I have full suit patterns available for foam armor. Here is the link for the PDF files for the armor;
www.4shared.com/office/3FrMRWT…
Cheers,
Brash
[email protected]
Thank you
Iron Man Foam Armor Templates
[email protected]
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I heard about you on PRF. I was hoping to make a COG Armor for Halloween. Could you please send me the pattern for the armor? You armor looks amazing.
Thanks
Carbolic
ReplyAwesome thanks. I hail from the Olympia area in WA. I appreciate you getting back to me. [email protected].
Thanks again.
John
Reply[email protected]
Email: [email protected]
Thank You!
I have to play a sci fi warrior next summer for a kids holiday camp
[email protected]
Email is [email protected]
Keep up the awesome work!!!
Have you ever wanted to have your very own Lancer weapon from the awesome world of Gears of War? Well fret not my friend because this article will show you the step by step process that you can use to create your very own Lancer rifle prop for your next cosplay or halloween party!
Almost the entire build was done with EVA foam, also known as Anti Fatigue floor mats, that you can pick up at your local hardware store or Harbor Freight. These mats we use can be molded with heat, sanded with sand paper and glued together with many different types of glue. Additionally, the material is light weight and is a great material for beginner cosplayers and prop makers. But, before we can get building we have to have a template that you can use to create it to the correct scale. Below is a download link and it is FREE for all of you beautiful creators!
But first, download the template here: CLICK TO DOWNLOAD
Now that you have the template, we can get into the first part of the build which is covered in the video below. In the video, I show you how to transfer the template onto your eva foam mats and then how to cut them all out and build the base of the Lancer rifle. Instead of me being long winded, let’s watch the video so you can see the build in action!
Gears Of War Foam Armor Templates
The build process is separated into 3 sections so it doesn’t feel too overwhelming. This is a medium to advanced build but if you take your time and follow the instructions you can create your own prop in a weekend! Have fun and enjoy!
-Buddy
Below is the first video and links to the follow up articles. Enjoy!
Video 1 covers building the base of the weapon using eva foam.
The next 2 videos can be found below:
Star Wars Foam Armor Templates
- Video 2 covers adding detail to the EVA foam prop and adding layers to make it more 3D: CLICK HERE FOR V2
- Video 3 covers painting, weathering and finishing the prop to make it look realistic: CLICK HERE FOR V3
While you are here, be sure to grab my FREE ebook and 5 video series on learning how to get started creating your own cosplay props and armor! Just click down below!
Click below to get 5 FREE videos that go over all the basics you need to get started today!
If you enjoyed the video, be sure to come by and Subscribe to my youTube channel for more fun content!
CLICK HERE and don’t forget to hit the Subscribe button!
things needed:
paper cut out of helmet found here - http://www.megaupload.com/?d=SZAM7WCO
you will also need pepakura viewer to view the helmet file - http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/download/viewer.html
1 small piece of coloured plastic. i chose red
fibreglass and resin
foam tiles found here - http://www.softtiles.com/ ( i used 7 sheets)
a couple of side release clips - http://media.rei.com/media/438809.jpg
soldering iron
assortments of paint. i used red, black and silver spray paints
added extras
paper model lancer gun - http://www.megaupload.com/?d=XR65A8B1
to begin download pepakura viewer as well as the files for the helmet
print out the helmet files and glue together, use pepakura viewer to locate each piece and glue them together. This stage is the most time consuming and most important, doing this right will save you a lot of time in the long run.
the best type of paper to use is thick card stock at least 120lb card. the eye sections can be left out completely as they obviously wont be needed.
Once the model is complete and you are happy with the result it is time for the resin and fibreglass.
you will not need a great amount but work with it carefully. this stuff is a pain to work with at the best of times. remember to do it in a well ventilated area or outside on a good day. mix up a small pot of resin you will need to first paint on a coat to the OUTSIDE of the helmet. just a thin layer it should go on like you're painting the model.
Leave this for a few hours to dry fully. The reason for doing this is to give the card more solidarity.
when mixing resin its a good idea to mix less than u think u may need as it sets very quickly and will be no good to anyone if its sets inside the cup.
Mix up a new batch of resin and cut up the fibreglass into small pieces...paint the INSIDE of the helmet with a layer of resin first, lay pieces of fibreglass on the resin and then paint more resin on top making sure to get the fibreglass into every crease.
Leave the entire thing over night to completely dry.
The next stage for the helmet is paint. i decided for a worn look, i started with a base coat of silver and then painting in the black and red sections. using more black and silver to give the whole thing a worn and weathered look
once finished with paint take the eye sections that were left and trace them onto the colour plastic sheet you have to get 2 pieces that will then fit into place covering the eyes
The body armour is next and in all honesty i have absolutely no plans for this i just did it. take a look at my pics and use them as reference images. the basic form is all you need to begin with, as you can see i cut out large pieces to build up the basic form. a few circles and then random shapes to fill in the space. The details are then all put into it using a soldering iron. Again there was absolutely no plans for what to burn or where to burn it i kind of just added shapes and lines that looked good.
to be able to get in and out of the armour i kept the bottom section open allowing it to just slip over my head. the bottom can then be closed by attaching the side release clips.
next is paint. the. i decided on using grey foam as it meant i could use the grey as a base colour. i used black for the shoulder straps and then for the detail work, the rest was just the red and silver, again using more black and silver to add a worn look to the armour
the final part is obviously the gun. which i feel is typically THE thing that makes this standout as gears of war.
Download the lander papercraft gun, it should ideally be printed out 3 times as big, print it out using a setting on your printer for printing posters 3x3
this should also be printed out on thick card stock and again once complete a layer of resin on the outside to really make the whole thing solid and durable.
the paint is literally just black and silver with silver to add a worn look.
then give the whole thing a good layer of blood. the technique i used was to water down some red acrylic paint, not too watery but enough that it drips off the paint brush. then use flicks of the wrist to spatter the armour and the gun with red paint to look like you have just used the chainsaw to cut into an alien..to really make it alien like you could use something more alien like such as green or blue for the blood, but i just chose red for the sake of halloween
a lot more can be done such as boots/shin guards as well as belt and wrist guards. i chose not to do all that in this tutorial as the techniques are all the same using foam to create the parts and painting them up. hope you enjoyed this tutorial
There are a few ways to get the in-game model. I generally search for XNALara models on DevianArt. I have also extracted the in game models for PC games that use the Unreal game engine by using the Unreal Engine Viewer. The image to the left is Garron Paduk from Gears of War: Judgment in the XNALara XPS. You can use XNALara to look at the character from all angles, and even post them using the controls in the program window. We'll just use it to export a .obj file of the model. | Garron Paduk Model in XNALara |
I use Autodesk 3D Studio Max since I already own the software from back when I did 3D modeling for a living. There are other shareware 3D packages available that will do all we need to do, which is delete everything until we have just the element we want to work on. For instance, just the boot, or just the chest armor. Once you've got the piece of armor isolated, you can export it as a .obj file. | |
You'll now open the armor piece in Pepakura Designer. When you import the model, it will not have it's texture map. You'll need to find the .tga texture map file from the XNALara model & save it as a .jpg file. | Boot imported into Pepakura Designer |
You'll apply the texture map by going to the top menu dropdown: Settings > Texture Settings.. Choose the Specify Texture Image.. button, navigate to the .jpg of the texture map & click Open. | |
You can now unwrap the model by choosing Others > Unfold from the top menu. The unwrapped model will be a MESS! You can use the Divide/Connect Face tool (it looks like a zipper) to start sorting out your model into usable pieces. | |
After a bit of work, you'll have the boot separated into all the useable pieces. As you can see, there are some issues:
| Boot separated into pieces |
This is where I take the models into Adobe Photoshop to start to break the pieces into what will be the final shapes. In this image, the heel will still need some work to break the two straps apart & get them to the right angle. Of course, if you don't have Adobe Photoshop, you can always do this part by hand. Just print out the page above & trace over the pieces. Final Template PiecesI use Adobe Illustrator to trace all the pieces, scale it to fit me, and print the templates onto 8.5x11 paper. | Boot piece after edge warping in Adobe Photoshop |
Here is my posterboard mockup of the boot. Sizing looks good, but I hadn't added the top kneepad strap on this model yet. | |
In this side view test, I don't have the kneepad backing applied yet. This causes the kneepad to tilt back in the test. Good enough! ..so I moved on to cutting the EVA foam. | Poster Board test of boot templates |
Here are all the pieces of EVA foam ready for assembly. You can see alignment notches along some edges. These are to either mark the centerline of a part (like the heels), or where panel lines are located (like the side of the boot). |
More Patterning Photos and Information
One of the biggest problems with going from the 3D printout to the 2D pattern pieces is accounting for the areas that are curved in the original model. You can see one such spot on the bottom inlay for Bermie Mataki's shoulder pauldron. The wedges left from flattening the model make the bottom edge of the inlay too wide. To account for this, Robin narrowed the bottom edge of the pattern slightly when she traced the pattern onto card stock. Then when was able to add the rounding to the picece by stretching the EVA as she heated/formed the pieces. | Bernie Mataki's shoulder pauldron fabrication |
<-Back to Basic Tools & Supplies | On to Assembling the Armor-> |
If you'd like to use any of this content on your website, please notify me via email prior to posting the content. Also, please credit the source as Hardscrabble Farm and if an author or contributor is noted, please credit them too. Basically, if you want to swipe my stuff, I know I can't stop you..or it would be costly, time consuming, and definitely NOT fun to try.